Kruger re-visited part two

Saying goodbye to Skukuza we headed further north and away from the busier areas. Our next camp wasTalamati Bush camp.

The Kruger bush camps provide a more authentic experience away from the commercial aspects of the bigger camps providing an intimate insight of the true African bush

Talamati is one of several of these camps. It has 15 comfortable self-contained cottages nestled in the raw bush

Talamati bungalow

 A feature of this camp is the waterhole with a hide viewing platform which is illuminated with spotlights. The waterhole serves a multitude of wildlife all of which frequent it throughout the day and night. But night-time is when the magic really begins.

Emerging ghost like out of the shadows large families of elephants make their way in orderly file to the water, the larger animals siphoning water from the large concrete reservoir, the smaller one's, among them some of which are newly born calves, are directed by the adults to the edge of the waterhole. Once replenished each family group quietly gather seemingly inquiring of each other whether they are ready to move to the safer environs of the bush, decision made and in single file, with the young in the middle they silently pass by casting a silhouette against the spotlight, as silently as they arrived they depart with silent footfalls disappearing into the darkness and merging with the surrounding bush. There is a communication energy hidden from human understanding of these majestic creatures, you can feel it as you sit in silence out of sight but not unknowingly to the animals who undoubtedly feel your presence. In this environment where they are protected they do not know fear of humans and allow us to co-exist peacefully, but there is also an order of things among them as they take their turns at the waterhole each family group together and gathering later in single file to depart. It is an experience of the deepest kind to be able to share time in the presence these majestic animals.

The waterholeTalamati bush camp

Our final camp further north took us to Bataleur camp. On approaching this camp we were reminded of the harshness of the African bush which in this part of the Kruger is in drought conditions. Our hope of seeing much game here was however later dispelled as we were treated to wonderful sightings of giraffe herds, sable antelope, elephants and lion as well as a multitude of other animals.

Bataleur cottage

Lion near Shingwedzi

You are welcome to make contact if you are planning a Kruger trip. Simply message me via this blog and also visit my photographic blog on the link cdhdesignsandphotography.blogspot.com to see more big game images.

Kruger re-visited

It has been several years since we last visited the Kruger National Park and how wonderful it was to be back in the bush once more.

Our two-week trip through the park took in four separate camps. We entered the park at the Malalene gate and worked our way eastwards toward lower Sabie we meandered along the many optional routes and were treated to wonderful sightings of a variety of game. Large families of elephants stopped us several times on the way, and these stops were made all the more special with the sight of many newly born calves learning the ropes of 'elephanthood'. It is said that there are around 17,000 elephants in the Kruger and we certainly had our fill of these magnificent and highly intelligent animals appearing around many a corner during our journey.

Lower Sabie rest camp has a choice of accommodation and we had reserved a riverside bungalow and were not disappointed. The unit was well equipped with all we needed and although by no means 5 star it provided everything required to make for a comfortable and casual stay. We prefer to self-cater and had stocked up on supplies at the Spar in Malalene although there is a well-equipped shop at the camp with most essentials. For a meal out or merely to sip a cappuccino whilst viewing game there is a magnificent Mug and Bean restaurant in the camp with arguably one of the best views in South Africa overlooking the Sabie river.

Lower Sabie riverfront cottages

Continuing our journey northwards our next stop was Skukuza rest camp, the largest of all the camps and also considered the most crowded due to its location and facilities. Once again, we opted for a riverside bungalow from which we were able to enjoy a never ending parade of game coming down to the river to drink throughout the day. This is also a popular elephant gathering place as families make their way down to the river at various times of the day. The Cattle Baron restaurant and coffee shop have a wonderful view over the river and offers a break from self-catering or a place to have coffee or cold beer and log into Wifi which is the only place you will find it in the camp.

Skukuza riverfront cottages

Elephants came up close at Skukuza

There are many different routes to take from these two camps if you are self-driving and although you may encounter a tangle of vehicles from time to time particularly if one of the big cats has been spotted you can also feel totally isolated and make your own unexpected discovery.

One our best sightings of leopard happened as a result of patience. Earlier in the day we had passed a tree on a lesser used route and were told by another visitor that a leopard had hauled his kill into a tree. The leopard however, remained hidden from all who tried to see it. Later that afternoon we returned to the tree and sat and waited whilst the day cooled. Almost an hour into our wait patience was rewarded as the leopard broke cover and leaped up the tree, no doubt after being harassed by the hyena who had made their presence felt and were lining up for a free meal. This was pure magic as the leopard is one of the most elusive of the 'big five'.

The journey continues in the next post

In the company of elephants Talamati bush camp Kruger Park

In the company of elephants, I found a deep and enriching experience and it happened at a waterhole in Talamati bush camp, one of the intimate bush camps tucked away in a corner of the park near Satara.

Talamati has 15 self-contained thatch bungalows where guests are given the opportunity to immerse themselves in the bush veld away from the buzz of the modern world of electronic devices yet still enjoying the convenience of comfortable accommodation with all basic services.

The camp has two hides one overlooking a waterhole and the other positioned to afford a view of the surrounding veld. By day a constant stream of animals frequents the waterhole on a natural rotation. Groups of elephants can be followed by a small herd of buffalo and then a group of feisty zebra, the procession of animals is constant throughout the day but at night, as the sun quickly turns the African sky a crimson red silhouetting  the Mopani trees, is when the magic really begins.

Wait patiently as the gloom folds into darkness and suddenly without a sound and emerging from the shadows into the ambient light in single file a small family of elephants moves toward the water. They are like ghost ships in the night as they quietly drift forward lowering their trunks into the water.  From another direction a new family emerge from the shadows and one can detect a soundless language here as they mingle and move in and out of the light some of them brushing by each other, the sounds of water splashing from their trunks the only sound as they quench their thirst against the heat of the day. Even more families now arrive at the waterhole appearing soundlessly out of the shadows of the bush, some sounds now as the herds acknowledge each other or jostle for dominance at the water source, the larger adults dominating the water reservoir with their trunks dangling over the edge as they siphon water into their mighty bodies. Then some of the small family groups that had earlier arrived, their thirst now satisfied, start to gather in a huddle, they separate and form a line single file in the order in which they arrived. The matriarch at the front with the younger bulls and calves in the middle and then the massive giant bull at the rear. As soundlessly as they arrived, they now depart they are so close as they pass by, We can almost touch them but soon they are enclosed behind the curtain of the dark bush. All the families that had arrived at the waterhole that night all gathered in the same way and then quietly left the way they had arrived. The language of elephants is not fully understood by humans, elephants can communicate sub sonically over great distances and it is known that they also communicate by touch but that night at the waterhole in the silence of the African bush we sensed their language rather than heard it.

Beads: The second currency of South Africa

Several centuries ago when the regions of Africa were being explored by traders they brought with them trade beads which were also called slave beads. The beads were used as currency to buy goods, services and slaves. The beads originated in Europe primarily from Venice. Tons of these beads were made and they were transported as ballast on the ships bound for Africa. As well as being traded for human cargo (slaves) they were also used to acquire ivory, gold and other goods.

Africans put a high value on beads and they were not only used for decorative purposes but used as a means of accumulating wealth becoming a much sought after form of currency.

Today hundreds of years later beads are still playing a valuable role in African life by creating an income for thousands of African’s.

Beads are not only sought after for traditional purposes to make adornments for tribal ceremonies but are also cleverly being incorporated into sculptures and items of adornment attractive to today’s tourist to Africa. 

In years gone by a curio from Africa was all too often a carved piece of wood or serpentine but over the last decade or so beaded items have surpassed these items as the most popular take home souvenir.

In true African creativity the art of beaded wire sculpture has advanced to such a stage that large icons are now being produced with beads and wire. 

A life size statue of the late Nelson Mandela and a life sized elephant promoting a popular South African liqueur being only two items that have now gone above and beyond the table top size sculpture.

Endangered animals like the rhino and sable antelope have made their appearance as accurate reproductions of these animals. It seems as if there is no limit to the level of accuracy that these bead artists can achieve with wire and beads.

Travelling thousands of kilometres around South Africa we encountered tens of thousands of items for sale on the open air markets, there was no end to the kaleidoscope of items available. 

Most of the artists man their own stands in the informal markets and they can all be seen twisting and turning wire in calloused fingers to create the shapes of the array of items. They do not work with specialised tools only using a pair of wire cutters to assist them in their craft.

 In the cities many of the African craft shops commission the manufacture of specific items which in turn guarantees some of these artists a steady source of income. 

The informal open air markets though provide a more rewarding experience for shoppers as the artists enjoy the interaction with tourists and they will proudly demonstrate how their art is produced.

Beads have enjoyed a long history in Africa and once used by unscrupulous foreign traders as currency have now been turned into a new and valuable currency for many African’s and in their turn created a viable business opportunity for many South African families.

Isigege

Isigege

Ibheqie

Zulu Traditional Adornments:

Isigege:    An apron worn by young zulu girls on ceremonial occasions the design represented is from the Msinga Area of KZN

Ibheqie:  A necklace worn by courting zulu men and women. The design represented is from the Nongoma District of KZN

Four of the many bead artists and stallholders in Howick-Kwa Zulu Natal

    Range of beaded products at Howick market

Kwa Zulu Natal Vulamehlo craft co-operative Hluhuwe Game Reserve.

Life size Marula elephant at Cape Town Airport

Endangered species: Sable antelope