Our
two-week trip through the park took in four separate camps. We entered the park
at the Malalene gate and worked our way eastwards toward lower Sabie we meandered along the many optional routes and were treated to wonderful
sightings of a variety of game. Large families of elephants stopped us several
times on the way, and these stops were made all the more special with the sight
of many newly born calves learning the ropes of 'elephanthood'. It is said that there are around
17,000 elephants in the Kruger and we certainly had our fill of these
magnificent and highly intelligent animals appearing around many a corner
during our journey.
Lower
Sabie rest camp has a choice of accommodation and we had reserved a riverside
bungalow and were not disappointed. The unit was well equipped with all we
needed and although by no means 5 star it provided everything required to make
for a comfortable and casual stay. We prefer to self-cater and had stocked up
on supplies at the Spar in Malalene although there is a well-equipped shop at
the camp with most essentials. For a meal out or merely to sip a cappuccino
whilst viewing game there is a magnificent Mug and Bean restaurant in the camp
with arguably one of the best views in South Africa overlooking the Sabie
river.
Lower Sabie riverfront cottages |
Continuing
our journey northwards our next stop was Skukuza rest camp, the largest of all
the camps and also considered the most crowded due to its location and
facilities. Once again, we opted for a riverside bungalow from which we were
able to enjoy a never ending parade of game coming down to the river to drink
throughout the day. This is also a popular elephant gathering place as families
make their way down to the river at various times of the day. The Cattle Baron
restaurant and coffee shop have a wonderful view over the river and offers a
break from self-catering or a place to have coffee or cold beer and log into
Wifi which is the only place you will find it in the camp.
Skukuza riverfront cottages |
Elephants came up close at Skukuza |
There
are many different routes to take from these two camps if you are self-driving
and although you may encounter a tangle of vehicles from time to time
particularly if one of the big cats has been spotted you can also feel totally
isolated and make your own unexpected discovery.
One our best sightings of
leopard happened as a result of patience. Earlier in the day we had passed a
tree on a lesser used route and were told by another visitor that a leopard had
hauled his kill into a tree. The leopard however, remained hidden from all who
tried to see it. Later that afternoon we returned to the tree and sat and
waited whilst the day cooled. Almost an hour into our wait patience was
rewarded as the leopard broke cover and leaped up the tree, no doubt after
being harassed by the hyena who had made their presence felt and were lining up
for a free meal. This was pure magic as the leopard is one of the most elusive
of the 'big five'.
The journey continues in the next post