Saturday, 10 January 2009

Merida. The White city

Merida.
Merida is known as the ‘White City’ which I guess refers to the many white washed buildings and some of the not so ‘white’ washed buildings you see everywhere you go in this the capital city of the Yucatan.
We had decided to use Merida as a base to explore the archaelogical sites in this part of the Yucatan and had booked ourselves into the Casa Del Ballam hotel, a block away from the Plaza Grande and the imposing Catederal de San Indelfonso. The hotel is a charming retreat from the hustle and bustle of the narrow streets in the old part of town and is very convenient to the historical section with numerous al fresco restaurants to choose from a mere stroll away from the front door. The hotel has been converted from an original Mexican Art Deco house once owned by a distinguished Mexican family, headed by Fernando Barbachano Peon, one of the pioneers of tourism in Mexico. The hotel is now run by his daughter and a competent and enthusiastic team. Many of the original features in this small hotel add to its charm with comfortable and well equipped rooms and good en-suite facilities. The daytime snack menu lacks imagination and whilst the all inclusive rate includes a continental breakfast it is limiting.
An extra charge is made for a cooked dish which doesn’t bring you much to get excited about but as we had already learned during our travels in Mexico if you’re not big on chili’s the cuisine is not the reason you visit Mexico. Most menu’s are a variation on a theme of pizza’s, pasta’s and salads although we did find chicken pibil a worth wile alternative in some establishments.
Open air art in the Plaza

Colourful Sunday market



On Sundays the Plaza comes alive for the weekly fair where we found an abundance of crafts, jewellery, clothing and all manner of things and activities that go to making a true Mexican fiesta.
In fact there is something on everyday in Merida. Thursday there is music and dance in the Parque Senta Lucia, Friday folk ballet at the Uni and on Saturday evening we went to the Noche Mexicana at the top end of Paseo Montejo where the old city meets the new. We watched a colourful performance of Mexican folk dancing and singing on the outdoor stage. Afterwards we strolled through the night market sampling Mexican food and at the end of the evening took a horse carriage ride the full length of the Paseo Montejo into the modern part of the city and circled back again to the old part to complete a memorable evening’s entertainment.

Merida is an interesting blend of old colonial Mexico with the new but there seems little regard for organised and orderly town planning which is probably half its charm. We found art galleries and craft shops hidden away down narrow streets amongst derelict buildings that seem to be awaiting some long forgotten refurbishment. Around one corner we followed music Pan like, which led us to a small church where a trio were playing traditional music in rehearsal for a wedding. The players nodded a greeting to us as we ventured inside the cool church and listened for a while.
Merida in mid summer is hot but you can find many places to cool off besides the hotel pool like the small but well laid out Museum of Anthropology which is a must see before embarking on field trips to the archaeological sites.
Uxmal
As enthusiastic ‘ancient culture vultures’ the impact of seeing our first Mayan site at Kabah was a thrill but the overwhelming majesty of nearby Uxmal was unexpected.
The scale of the site and the condition of the buildings and the general aura they exuded left little to the imagination. The entire site is exceptionally well maintained by the authorites and due to its scale there are many quiet corners at Uxmal to sit and gaze upon this ancient city and picture the lifestyle of the Mayan’s many centuries earlier.
Other equally important sites are within easy reach and the jewel in the Mayan crown, Chichen Itza, is only a couple of hours away along a well maintained highway but that is another story.

Port Macquarie

Cassegrain winery and highly recommended Twotriplefour restaurant. Great food and excellent service   The Beachfront Port Macquarie