Port Macquarie

Cassegrain winery and highly recommended Twotriplefour restaurant. Great food and excellent service 

 The Beachfront Port Macquarie

Kruger re-visited part two

Saying goodbye to Skukuza we headed further north and away from the busier areas. Our next camp wasTalamati Bush camp.

The Kruger bush camps provide a more authentic experience away from the commercial aspects of the bigger camps providing an intimate insight of the true African bush

Talamati is one of several of these camps. It has 15 comfortable self-contained cottages nestled in the raw bush

Talamati bungalow

 A feature of this camp is the waterhole with a hide viewing platform which is illuminated with spotlights. The waterhole serves a multitude of wildlife all of which frequent it throughout the day and night. But night-time is when the magic really begins.

Emerging ghost like out of the shadows large families of elephants make their way in orderly file to the water, the larger animals siphoning water from the large concrete reservoir, the smaller one's, among them some of which are newly born calves, are directed by the adults to the edge of the waterhole. Once replenished each family group quietly gather seemingly inquiring of each other whether they are ready to move to the safer environs of the bush, decision made and in single file, with the young in the middle they silently pass by casting a silhouette against the spotlight, as silently as they arrived they depart with silent footfalls disappearing into the darkness and merging with the surrounding bush. There is a communication energy hidden from human understanding of these majestic creatures, you can feel it as you sit in silence out of sight but not unknowingly to the animals who undoubtedly feel your presence. In this environment where they are protected they do not know fear of humans and allow us to co-exist peacefully, but there is also an order of things among them as they take their turns at the waterhole each family group together and gathering later in single file to depart. It is an experience of the deepest kind to be able to share time in the presence these majestic animals.

The waterholeTalamati bush camp

Our final camp further north took us to Bataleur camp. On approaching this camp we were reminded of the harshness of the African bush which in this part of the Kruger is in drought conditions. Our hope of seeing much game here was however later dispelled as we were treated to wonderful sightings of giraffe herds, sable antelope, elephants and lion as well as a multitude of other animals.

Bataleur cottage

Lion near Shingwedzi

You are welcome to make contact if you are planning a Kruger trip. Simply message me via this blog and also visit my photographic blog on the link cdhdesignsandphotography.blogspot.com to see more big game images.

Kruger re-visited

It has been several years since we last visited the Kruger National Park and how wonderful it was to be back in the bush once more.

Our two-week trip through the park took in four separate camps. We entered the park at the Malalene gate and worked our way eastwards toward lower Sabie we meandered along the many optional routes and were treated to wonderful sightings of a variety of game. Large families of elephants stopped us several times on the way, and these stops were made all the more special with the sight of many newly born calves learning the ropes of 'elephanthood'. It is said that there are around 17,000 elephants in the Kruger and we certainly had our fill of these magnificent and highly intelligent animals appearing around many a corner during our journey.

Lower Sabie rest camp has a choice of accommodation and we had reserved a riverside bungalow and were not disappointed. The unit was well equipped with all we needed and although by no means 5 star it provided everything required to make for a comfortable and casual stay. We prefer to self-cater and had stocked up on supplies at the Spar in Malalene although there is a well-equipped shop at the camp with most essentials. For a meal out or merely to sip a cappuccino whilst viewing game there is a magnificent Mug and Bean restaurant in the camp with arguably one of the best views in South Africa overlooking the Sabie river.

Lower Sabie riverfront cottages

Continuing our journey northwards our next stop was Skukuza rest camp, the largest of all the camps and also considered the most crowded due to its location and facilities. Once again, we opted for a riverside bungalow from which we were able to enjoy a never ending parade of game coming down to the river to drink throughout the day. This is also a popular elephant gathering place as families make their way down to the river at various times of the day. The Cattle Baron restaurant and coffee shop have a wonderful view over the river and offers a break from self-catering or a place to have coffee or cold beer and log into Wifi which is the only place you will find it in the camp.

Skukuza riverfront cottages

Elephants came up close at Skukuza

There are many different routes to take from these two camps if you are self-driving and although you may encounter a tangle of vehicles from time to time particularly if one of the big cats has been spotted you can also feel totally isolated and make your own unexpected discovery.

One our best sightings of leopard happened as a result of patience. Earlier in the day we had passed a tree on a lesser used route and were told by another visitor that a leopard had hauled his kill into a tree. The leopard however, remained hidden from all who tried to see it. Later that afternoon we returned to the tree and sat and waited whilst the day cooled. Almost an hour into our wait patience was rewarded as the leopard broke cover and leaped up the tree, no doubt after being harassed by the hyena who had made their presence felt and were lining up for a free meal. This was pure magic as the leopard is one of the most elusive of the 'big five'.

The journey continues in the next post

In the company of elephants Talamati bush camp Kruger Park

In the company of elephants, I found a deep and enriching experience and it happened at a waterhole in Talamati bush camp, one of the intimate bush camps tucked away in a corner of the park near Satara.

Talamati has 15 self-contained thatch bungalows where guests are given the opportunity to immerse themselves in the bush veld away from the buzz of the modern world of electronic devices yet still enjoying the convenience of comfortable accommodation with all basic services.

The camp has two hides one overlooking a waterhole and the other positioned to afford a view of the surrounding veld. By day a constant stream of animals frequents the waterhole on a natural rotation. Groups of elephants can be followed by a small herd of buffalo and then a group of feisty zebra, the procession of animals is constant throughout the day but at night, as the sun quickly turns the African sky a crimson red silhouetting  the Mopani trees, is when the magic really begins.

Wait patiently as the gloom folds into darkness and suddenly without a sound and emerging from the shadows into the ambient light in single file a small family of elephants moves toward the water. They are like ghost ships in the night as they quietly drift forward lowering their trunks into the water.  From another direction a new family emerge from the shadows and one can detect a soundless language here as they mingle and move in and out of the light some of them brushing by each other, the sounds of water splashing from their trunks the only sound as they quench their thirst against the heat of the day. Even more families now arrive at the waterhole appearing soundlessly out of the shadows of the bush, some sounds now as the herds acknowledge each other or jostle for dominance at the water source, the larger adults dominating the water reservoir with their trunks dangling over the edge as they siphon water into their mighty bodies. Then some of the small family groups that had earlier arrived, their thirst now satisfied, start to gather in a huddle, they separate and form a line single file in the order in which they arrived. The matriarch at the front with the younger bulls and calves in the middle and then the massive giant bull at the rear. As soundlessly as they arrived, they now depart they are so close as they pass by, We can almost touch them but soon they are enclosed behind the curtain of the dark bush. All the families that had arrived at the waterhole that night all gathered in the same way and then quietly left the way they had arrived. The language of elephants is not fully understood by humans, elephants can communicate sub sonically over great distances and it is known that they also communicate by touch but that night at the waterhole in the silence of the African bush we sensed their language rather than heard it.

New Caledonia Road Trip

ROUTE:

Noumea to Kone 270 km

Kone to Malabou Beach 157km

Malabou Beach to Hiengheve 275km

Hiengheve to Pondimie 50km

Pondimie to Noumea 299km

Koniambo Hotel Kone

After four relaxing days on the lovely Ile Des Pins we collected our hired Europcar at Magenta airport and headed north for Kone a distance of 270km. Driving in New Caledonia is on the right so negotiating roundabouts and freeway on ramps was a bit of a challenge at first and for the first half hour we found ourselves constantly heading in the wrong direction to where we wanted to be but with a little extra patience and logic we eventually found ourselves heading north. The road conditions on this section were very good and the dual freeway extends almost to the airport some 45 Kms from Noumea. It seems though that the speed limit is seen as a challenge to many motorists but in our little mini Peugeot we were no match for the big boys in their oversized Utes so merely trundled along without apparently aggravating anyone coming up behind us at breakneck speed. Not one hoot so far! The countryside is magnificent and to the eye pristine and un spoilt. Soaring mountain ranges are a feature of the the island topography and at times these give way to gentle rolling hills and grasslands. All evoking nostalgic thoughts of places previously lived and favourite places of natural beauty. I discovered that New Caledonia is home to 3,332 plant species 2,551 of which are endemic and as we travelled we marvelled at the variety of trees, shrubbery and grass varieties.

On arrival in Kone we soon found our roadside hotel The Koniambo. A pleasant enough motel type of establishment, clean and moderately comfortable. The staff were great and put up with our hesitant French. Dinner was buffet style in a brightly lit dining hall, the quality of fare was good with a fairly wide choice.

The next day a shorter drive to Malabou Beach the roads still good with evidence of up grades along the way. The vegetation gave way to a more arid look than the south with smaller rocky hills and more stunned vegetation. Poum is the northern most town and appears to have little going for it and feels rather sad and neglected but it was a Saturday afternoon.

Malabou Beach Resort is 10 minutes south of Poum. The resort overlooks a large lagoon and comprises lovely beach bungalows thatched in palm leaves. Interiors are modern and clean if somewhat compact and some bungalows have small private pools. The beach is not great, a very narrow slice of sand with lots of natural debris along the shore. A walking trail from the resort takes you through the mangroves and up to the top of the peninsula for lovely panoramic views. The environment is pristine, natural and serene. You can also explore the lagoon on a kayak from where you can appreciate this piece of paradise. Overall the resort is well run with friendly staff. The restaurant offers a reasonable a la carte menu, we were visiting out of season and realised that this place undoubtedly has more to offer at peak times. A few days here though is adequate as the surrounding area offers little more of interest to visitors.

Malabou Beach Resort

Malabou Beach to Hienghene (Hyehen)

Driving south for around 40km we took the turnoff at Chagrin in the direction of Ouegoa. This cross country road twists and turns through rolling hills and over small mountain passes, the road is generally in good condition but you cannot do this short distance in a hurry and why would you want to? The scenery along the way is magnificent and once more we were struck by the diversity of plant life, evergreen hardwood trees and tree ferns clustered in small forests and then open country with conifers and a variety of flora. The leisurely pace allowed us to enjoy the passing scenery but concentration is needed in negotiating the many winding climbs and descents. Finally cresting a steep hill the magnificent turquoise waters told us we had reached the other side of New Caledonia which at its widest point is only 55km. Driving south we hugged the rugged coastline passing through small settlements and farms with the Kanak people waving us on with a friendly smile. The road in this stretch is not great and care is needed approaching the one way bridges of which there are many. The ferry crossing over the Ouaieme river which flows through central NC is the last remaining barge in the country and it comes upon you without notice, a steeply winding road drops you into the valley with its breathtaking view of Mount Panie and all of a sudden a stop sign signals your arrival at the crossing point. The barge man calls from his small cabin for you to proceed and whilst you cannot understand his orders you instinctively know where to stop on the barge to avoid going over the edge, not much attention to health and safety here but you need to remember that this is after all 'island life'. The barge service is free and works on demand with no waiting for a full load, our barge man took off with only us on board and then suddenly reversed to pick up two more vehicles who arrived as we left the shore.

Barge crossing

On arrival in Hienghene (Hyehen) which means 'cry while walking' due to the villages violent history there is a pharmacy, mooring dock and information centre and no other shops. We stopped at the surprisingly modern information centre  to ask directions to our next stop Koulnoe Village Resort and at the same time to learn of any attractions in the vicinity. The main attractions here are the Tao waterfall around 30 km north of the village and Les Roche Noires de Linderalique (Limestone rocks) in the beautiful bay. One of the noticeable features of our journey in New Caledonia is the scarcity of convenience stores to buy basic grocery needs. Snack bars or take away establishments are as rare as hens teeth and we soon learned that if we wanted a supply of snacks or even to do a bit of self catering that we took our opportunity when we stumbled upon it, choices are limited with a dearth of fresh produce which is surprising given the pastoral aspect of the country. The resorts generally are fixated on buffets and you are held hostage to the relatively high price you need to pay even if you are only looking for a light meal. There simply is no alternative but perhaps this adds to the authenticity of country kept as it is in its natural state with minimum human intervention.

Koulnoe Village Resort

Hiengheve viewpoint

Hiengheve Bay

The Hotel Teiti in Poindimie is positioned overlooking tranquil seas and does have a beach but not anything too get excited about although the waters are calm and fine for swimming, the beach is long enough for a longish walk and the shoreline offers up a variety of sea shells and broken coral.

Hotel Tieti Pondimie

Lovely beachside bungalows

Beach at Hotel Tieti

The final leg of our trip from Pondimie continued down the eastern shore crossing the mountains from east to west turning at Houailou heading from Bourail and southwards to Noumea and our destination hotel Nouvata at Baie De L' Anse Vata

Beautiful church near Pondimie

Heading to the mountain passes

Our mini Peugeot

New Caledonia is a gentle and relaxing place to visit. The New Caledonians are warm and welcoming and although this is a French speaking country many people can converse in English and will patiently tolerate any hesitant French you may have to offer. Our trip was entirely d.i.y from Air bookings and car hire to the hotels and resorts we stayed in. Readers of this blog are invited to contact me for any information they may need should they be planning a trip to this small but unique country only a few hours from Sydney but yet offering a unique mixture of Melanesian and European culture. We have merely brushed the surface and feel that there is more to explore and local culture to experience in this interesting archipelago.

New Caledonia Isle of Pines

Ile des Pins

Paradise found

In the morning we left Sydney and that evening we were sipping wine watching the sunset over Kanumera Bay at Oure Tere resort on the Ile Des Pins.

The flight from Sydney to New Caledonia took a little under three hours and as we were connecting from Noumea's International airport to catch a domestic flight on Air Caledonie we needed to transfer from Tontouta to Magenta airport which we did on a pre-booked shuttle service by Smiths Voyages.

Our thirty minute flight gave us a birds eye view of what to expect from our destination.
Turquoise seas, reefs and white beaches and sandbars. Our transfer to the resort of Oure Tere (Pure Earth) gave us an insight into the unspoilt beauty of the island and on arrival we were warmly greeted with a fruit cocktail and efficiently escorted to our beach front bungalow only steps away from the gentle waves rolling onto shore.

The bungalows are sympathetically placed in amongst the tropical gardens and soaring palms giving occupants privacy and affording the best opportunity to immerse one self into the gentle embrace of this piece of paradise.

The resort is efficiently managed by warm and friendly staff who attend to all our needs effortlessly. The al fresco dining area and open bar lounge overlook the beach and the dining menu offers a good variety of dishes some prepared in the traditional Kanak way like Bougna baked parcel of banana leaves with fish, prawns and coconut milk. Traditionally this dish can also include chicken or pork and is buried in a earthen hole and baked on hot stones.

Kayaks, long boards and snorkelling equipment is provided free of charge to guests and the bay has an abundance of tropical fish and coral.

We hired a car for one day in order to tour the island and visit one of the 'must see' attractions La Piscine Naturelle in the Baie d'Oro which is a pool of beautiful turquoise water protected from the sea by a narrow inlet and surrounded by pine trees. The snorkelling is spectacular and even if you just wade into the water the fish approach you. A 20 minute walk from the car park through natural forest is the only way to reach the pool, if you go take water and wear sandals as there is some wading necessary through the shallow lagoon this adds to the natural beauty as there are no boardwalks or constructed pathways. I learned that the local chief has banned cruise passengers from here in order to protect this precious environment and coral I have also read recently that returning visitors have been saddened by the disappearance of the many giant clams they saw on a previous visit years earlier and the greyness of some the coral, they were however quick to point out that this still does not detract from this lovely piece of natural paradise and it is pleasing to see that new clams are developing. On our day tour of the island we also stopped in at the modest Catholic church in Vao (the small principle village of the island). 

Ile Des Pins is a place of friendly people and a natural island wonderland that is currently well preserved in its natural state with minimal commercial development impacting the environment and long may that last for the benefit of future visitors.

Kanumera Bay

Kanumera Bay

Hardwood tree forest at Kanumera

Baie de Kuto

Kanamera Bay

Catholic church in Vao

Outrigger canoe

Pircine naturelle

Beach at Oure Tere looking toward restaurant

Bungalows at Oure Tere

Oure Tere restaurant and bar

Sunset over the bay